Mortagne-sur-Gironde is a town in Charente-Maritime, in the New Aquitaine region, 30 km south-east of Royan.
Its territory of nearly 19 km² is located on the right bank of the Gironde estuary which constitutes its limit to the southwest. The locality is divided into two parts: the historic town has developed on a cliff, and below, a port once surrounded by flour mills has been built, dedicated to fishing and boating after being very active from the 18th century to the second war. It is adjoined by a landscape reminiscent of the Camargue, the level of the water which once came to lick the cliffs having fallen.
Former principality formed at the end of the Hundred Years War, of which Cardinal Richelieu was once "the sovereign", the city remained economically active thereafter thanks to the commercial port traffic. Since the last third of the twentieth century, Mortagne-sur-Gironde, which to date has a little over 900 inhabitants, has become thanks to its unique landscapes, its leisure offer and its heritage a tourist center of interest.
In terms of heritage, a discovery of the town can begin with the Saint-Martial hermitage, which was built around the year 1000 by monks in natural cavities at the bottom of a cliff, south of the current port.. It owes its name to Saint Martial who would have lived as a hermit on this same site at the very beginning of the Christian era. Occupied by Récollets until the Revolution, this troglodyte monastery consists of several cells, a refectory, a kitchen and a curious chapel. A tribune cut in the rock is still preserved there. Two statues are also visible there.
This rare example of religious architecture served as a relay for pilgrims going to Santiago de Compostela (the religious helping them to cross the Gironde by boat) but also as a first aid station for the sailors (the monks watching over the traffic safety on the estuary). Protected as historical monuments, the hermitage is open all year round from Wednesday to Sunday. Visit by reservation. Information on +33 5 46 08 21 00.
To see then in the "upper" town, the church of Saint-Étienne, which dates from the 13th century, belonging to the Romanesque Plantagenêt style (that is to say during the English on Aquitaine). At the level of the transept, fine examples of the original capitals have been preserved. The building was restored in the 17th century, when the Jesuit-style altar was installed. Finally, if the bell tower is late (1860), it should be noted that the slabs cover old burials...
In the "lower" town, then, a stop is required at the postcard museum, near the port, where the the city's past is evoked via old postcards, maps and stories. Aspects of daily life today are also discussed. Free entrance. Information on +33 5 46 08 17 66.
Guided tours of the locality are available. Departure from the port then evocation of the history of Mortagne (Hundred Years War, principality, development of the port) then of its aspects of today (sturgeon fishing, viticulture, beauty of natural landscapes...). 1.2 km course. Every Tuesday in July and August. Price: 3 and 6 euros. Information on +33 5 46 08 21 00.
During this visit or during a free walk, a passage is strongly recommended by the belvedere and its orientation table, on the "upper" town. You benefit from an unrivaled view of the port, the marshes evoking the Camargue and the estuary.
The port with its basins fed by the Fondevine river and its one-kilometer channel connecting it to the estuary also deserves a dedicated walk. There remains a professional fishing activity but replacing commercial traffic, yachting has developed on the site with 200 permanent berths plus a "afloat" basin for visitors. Boaters have all the necessary comfort equipment (water and electricity terminals, toilets, WiFi network, etc.). Contact on +33 5 46 90 63 15.
In terms of discovering the natural environment, walks "in the heart of the Camargue Mortagnaise" are offered in summer. A family audience can understand the ecological richness (fauna and flora) of the places, between cliffs and shores, through reed beds or salt meadows. Thursday in July and August. 1.5 km course. Price: 4 and 9 euros. Reservations on +33 5 46 08 21 00.
Also appreciated by families, visits to the farm are possible: this is the case of the Gravelle farm which is engaged in organic farming and produces lambs, chickens, eggs, vegetables and breads. Open from June to September. For its part, the association of sheep of the estuary brings together and promotes sheep farming in marshes and salt meadows. In both cases, contact +33 5 46 90 50 91.
The landscapes of the estuary and the surrounding countryside are also pleasant to discover via a ride on horseback, in a carriage or even on the back of a donkey! Contact the Rancho center or the Anestuaire association via +33 5 46 90 50 91.
For athletes, note that in the town are accessible to visitors and holidaymakers a football field, a basketball court, tennis courts as well as a skate park: inquire at +33 5 46 90 60 01.
Finally, in addition to the guided tours offered, in the locality or neighboring towns, a number of hiking trails are signposted and allow you to discover the landscapes of the estuary, the old customs paths, the charms of the coast as well as those of the "interior" countryside. Tasting breaks are possible with the wine growers (production of pineau). Unless you prefer the beaches near Mortagne (sur Talmont, in particular). Maps and information on +33 5 46 08 21 00.
